What Latisse Is Really Doing to Your Eyes (and Eyelids)
By Sandra Lora Cremers MD FACS, Visionary Eye Doctors, Rockville Maryland
Latisse is one of the most quietly used cosmetic medications in the country. The little brown bottle sits on bathroom counters next to mascara and serums, and most patients do not realize that the active ingredient is the exact same molecule we prescribe for glaucoma. Same drug. Same concentration. Different label. Different price.
The Origin Story
Bimatoprost is a prostaglandin analog, technically a prostamide F2 alpha analog. Ophthalmologists use prostaglandin analogs every day to lower eye pressure in glaucoma patients. They are some of the most effective glaucoma drops we have. Over time, clinicians began noticing that their glaucoma patients had longer, thicker, darker eyelashes after starting these drops. The drug company saw the side effect and turned it into a product. The FDA approved bimatoprost for cosmetic eyelash growth in 2008.
The mechanism is the same on the lashes as on the eye. Bimatoprost stimulates prostamide receptors in the dermal papilla of the hair follicle, prolonging the anagen growth phase of the hair cycle, increasing follicle size, and stimulating melanogenesis, the production of pigment. This receptor mediated mechanism has been confirmed by studies showing that a prostamide receptor antagonist blocks the growth effect.
Latisse Works
The pivotal trial was a multicenter, double masked, randomized, vehicle controlled study of 278 adults treated for four months. At week sixteen, 78 percent of bimatoprost treated subjects achieved at least a one grade increase on the Global Eyelash Assessment scale, compared with 18 percent for vehicle, with p value less than zero point zero zero zero one. Digital image analysis showed a 25 percent increase in eyelash length, a 106 percent increase in thickness, and an 18 percent increase in darkness.
The long term follow up study by Glaser and colleagues in 2015 extended treatment to twelve months. The composite responder rate at month four was 40 point 2 percent for bimatoprost versus 6 point 8 percent for vehicle in patients with idiopathic hypotrichosis. Efficacy was maintained or enhanced at twelve months in patients who continued treatment. Treatment effects markedly diminished four to six months after stopping the drug.
Studies in patients with chemotherapy induced eyelash thinning also showed benefit, with a 37 point 5 percent responder rate for bimatoprost versus 18 point 2 percent for vehicle.
The benefits are real. So are the risks.
The Risks the Marketing Does Not Foreground
What I see in my practice, and what the literature has shown for years, is a list of complications that the marketing does not foreground.
Prostaglandin associated periorbitopathy. Bimatoprost can darken the skin of the eyelid in a pattern called prostaglandin associated periorbitopathy. The FDA label lists periorbital skin discoloration, periorbital fat atrophy leading to skin tightness, deepening of the eyelid sulcus, eyelid ptosis, enophthalmos, and eyelid retraction as postmarketing adverse reactions. That darkening can be slow to reverse and sometimes does not fully reverse. In a study of glaucoma patients using prostaglandin analogs unilaterally, Kucukevcilioglu and colleagues in 2014 found that the overall frequency of prostaglandin associated periorbitopathy was 93 point 3 percent in the bimatoprost group, with deepening of the upper lid sulcus in 80 percent of bimatoprost users.
Orbital fat atrophy. Bimatoprost can flatten the orbital fat pad, giving the appearance of a sunken or hollow eye. Higashiyama and colleagues in 2019 used MRI to quantitatively demonstrate that bimatoprost treated orbits had significantly less orbital fat, 14 point 6 cubic centimeters versus 17 point 0, with p value zero point zero four, and greater enophthalmos compared to untreated contralateral orbits. Sira, Verity, and Malhotra in 2012 reported a case series of seven glaucoma patients with periorbital hollowing from bimatoprost zero point zero three percent, the exact formulation marketed as Latisse, and emphasized that such changes can be irreversible.
Iris color change. The medication can darken the iris, especially in patients with hazel or mixed color eyes. The pigmentation change is due to increased melanin content in melanocytes rather than an increase in the number of melanocytes. The FDA label states that iris pigmentation is likely to be permanent. Iris color change may not be noticeable for several months to years. Typically the brown pigmentation around the pupil spreads concentrically toward the periphery.
Periorbital muscle effects. Wang, Koh, and Cheng in 2014 reported a case of periocular muscle atrophy and levator dysfunction from unilateral bimatoprost use, resulting in ptosis that required surgical correction. This suggests that the effects of bimatoprost may not be limited to periorbital fat.
Ocular surface irritation. Bimatoprost can cause irritation, redness, and meibomian gland disturbance when it migrates onto the ocular surface, which it does in essentially every user, because you cannot perfectly contain a liquid on the lash line. The most common adverse reactions in clinical trials were eye pruritus at 3 to 4 percent, conjunctival hyperemia at 3 to 4 percent, and skin hyperpigmentation at 3 to 4 percent.
The full FDA label list of adverse reactions also includes ocular dryness, visual disturbance, ocular burning, eye pain, blepharitis, cataract, superficial punctate keratitis, eye discharge, tearing, photophobia, allergic conjunctivitis, asthenopia, conjunctival edema, iritis, and headaches. Postmarketing reports include dry skin of the eyelid, eye swelling, eyelid edema, hordeolum or stye, hypersensitivity, increased lacrimation, madarosis and trichorrhexis with temporary loss of lashes or eyelash breakage, periorbital and lid changes associated with periorbital fat atrophy and skin tightness leading to deepening of the eyelid sulcus and eyelid ptosis, rash, periorbital skin discoloration, skin exfoliation of the eyelid area, trichiasis, and blurred vision.
The Preservative Problem, Benzalkonium Chloride
There is a layer of toxicity in the Latisse bottle that almost no patient hears about, and it is not the bimatoprost itself. It is the preservative. According to the FDA approved drug label, Latisse contains a preservative called benzalkonium chloride, abbreviated BAK, at a concentration of zero point zero five milligrams per milliliter. The inactive ingredients also include sodium chloride, sodium phosphate dibasic, citric acid, and purified water, with sodium hydroxide or hydrochloric acid added to adjust pH within a range of 6 point 8 to 7 point 8. The label specifically warns that BAK may be absorbed by and cause discoloration of soft contact lenses, and instructs users to remove contact lenses before application and to wait fifteen minutes after administration before reinserting them.
BAK is a quaternary ammonium compound used in approximately 70 percent of ophthalmic formulations as an antimicrobial preservative. It is also well established as cytotoxic to the ocular surface. A comprehensive review by Baudouin and colleagues demonstrated that BAK causes tear film instability, loss of conjunctival goblet cells, conjunctival squamous metaplasia and apoptosis, disruption of the corneal epithelial barrier, and damage to deeper ocular tissues. These adverse effects are dose dependent and time dependent and can manifest after as little as seven days of exposure.
What does BAK do to the meibomian glands specifically. Chen and colleagues in 2018 demonstrated that BAK at concentrations approved for consumer use is directly toxic to human meibomian gland epithelial cells, causing dose dependent cell atrophy, decreased proliferation, cell death, and reduced AKT signaling. Ziemanski and colleagues in 2023 showed that BAK significantly modulated the lipidomic expression of cholesteryl esters by thirty percent and triacylglycerols by twelve percent in meibomian gland epithelial cells, and that non preserved latanoprost had less cytotoxicity and fewer lipidomic effects compared to the BAK preserved version, strengthening the argument for BAK free preparations. Georgiev and colleagues in 2011 demonstrated at the molecular level that BAK disrupts meibum films at the air water interface within seconds, impairing lipid spread and displacing lipids from the tear film surface.
The clinical data tracks the laboratory data. A 2026 study by Lee and colleagues showed that patients receiving preservative containing glaucoma medications had poorer meibomian gland parameters, worse corneal staining scores, and higher MMP nine inflammatory levels compared to those on preservative free formulations. A New England Journal of Medicine review on dry eye explicitly noted that toxic effects of preservatives in topical ocular medications, including BAK, can lead to conjunctival inflammation and tear film instability, causing or exacerbating dry eye disease. Nagstrup in 2023 concluded in a comprehensive thesis that BAK preservation is unnecessary and harmful to the ocular surface and that BAK should be phased out of eye drops intended for chronic use. Filippelli and colleagues in 2022 demonstrated that switching glaucoma patients from BAK preserved bimatoprost to preservative free bimatoprost significantly improved Ocular Surface Disease Index scores and tear break up time within fourteen days, with p value less than zero point zero zero zero one, without any loss of eye pressure lowering efficacy.
The implication for Latisse users is sobering. When you apply Latisse to your lash line every night, you are exposing your ocular surface to two separate mechanisms of injury at the same time. The prostaglandin analog disrupts meibomian gland differentiation and lipid production at the receptor and gene expression level. The BAK preservative is directly cytotoxic to the corneal, conjunctival, and meibomian gland epithelial cells. These insults compound each other. For a patient with pre existing dry eye disease or any baseline meibomian gland dysfunction, the BAK alone is a serious concern. Adding bimatoprost on top of BAK makes the situation worse, not better. Patients who wear contact lenses face an additional layer of risk, because BAK can be absorbed into soft contact lens material and concentrate there, prolonging the exposure.
The Industry Sponsorship Problem
A particularly important review by Steinsapir and Steinsapir in 2021 argued that the cosmetic clinical trials of bimatoprost were almost entirely industry sponsored and that study design choices created gaps in our understanding of clinical safety. They concluded that clinical trials of bimatoprost for eyelash growth may have systematically underreported the incidence of drug application discomfort and prostaglandin associated periorbitopathy, and that the risk of increased iris pigmentation remains inadequately investigated. That matters. When the company funding the study writes the study, you get a particular kind of safety profile.
Meibomian Gland Dysfunction and Dry Eye
For patients with dry eye disease, the meibomian gland question is urgent. Meibomian glands are the small oil producing glands inside the eyelid. They produce the lipid layer of the tear film and prevent tear evaporation. When they are damaged, evaporative dry eye disease follows.
Mocan and colleagues in 2016 found that the prevalence of meibomian gland dysfunction was 92 percent in glaucoma patients on prostaglandin analog monotherapy, compared with 58 point 3 percent in those on non prostaglandin medications, with p value zero point zero two. The obstructive type of meibomian gland dysfunction was detected in 95 point 7 percent of prostaglandin analog users. Lee and colleagues in 2019 demonstrated that meibomian gland dropout rate correlated significantly with prostaglandin analog medication duration, with p value less than zero point zero zero one. A 2025 systematic review by Monge Carmona and colleagues confirmed a correlation between prostaglandin analog use and ocular surface damage, including meibomian gland changes.
At the cellular level, Kam and colleagues in 2016 showed that bimatoprost decreased the activity of the AKT signaling pathway in human meibomian gland epithelial cells, a pathway known to promote cell survival. Ziemanski and colleagues in 2022 demonstrated that prostaglandin F2 alpha alters cholesteryl ester and triacylglycerol expression in meibomian gland epithelial cells, potentially interfering with meibocyte differentiation. Jiang and colleagues in 2022 showed that latanoprost, a related prostaglandin analog, induces inflammation and suppresses differentiation of meibomian gland epithelial cells.
I see patients whose dry eye disease worsened on Latisse and improved within weeks of stopping. If you have any baseline ocular surface disease, this is a conversation to have before you start, not after.
Glaucoma Patients, A Special Concern
For glaucoma patients, Latisse is even more nuanced. The FDA label explicitly warns that in patients using Lumigan or other prostaglandin analogs for the treatment of elevated intraocular pressure, the concomitant use of Latisse may interfere with the desired reduction in eye pressure. If you are already on a prostaglandin glaucoma drop, adding Latisse may saturate the receptors and reduce the effectiveness of your eye pressure medication. The additional BAK exposure on top of BAK preserved glaucoma drops, which many patients are still on, compounds the ocular surface toxicity.
Reversibility, What Comes Back and What Does Not
Some signs of prostaglandin associated periorbitopathy improve after discontinuation. Nakakura and colleagues in 2020 followed eleven patients switched from prostaglandin F2 alpha analogs to omidenepag isopropyl and found that eyelid pigmentation improved in 8 of 11 patients by six months, but upper eyelid ptosis did not improve in any patient. Deepening of the upper eyelid sulcus improved in only 3 patients, all of whom had previously used bimatoprost. The FDA label states that periorbital tissue pigmentation and eyelash changes have been reported to be reversible in some patients, but iris pigmentation is likely to be permanent.
Shah and colleagues in 2013 found a 230 fold increased risk of involution of dermatochalasis and a 249 fold increased risk of loss of lower lid steatoblepharon associated with current prostaglandin analog use. Upper lid ptosis with an odds ratio of 4 point 04 and levator dysfunction with an odds ratio of 7 point 51 were also highly associated with current use.
If You Choose to Use It
Here is the framework I give my patients. Get a baseline ophthalmologic exam, ideally including meibography. Apply only to the upper lash line as directed. Do not apply to the lower eyelash line. Blot any runoff. Remove contact lenses before application and wait at least fifteen minutes before reinserting them, because the BAK preservative can be absorbed by soft lens material. Take periodic breaks. Watch for changes in iris color, eyelid skin tone, and the depth of your eye in the socket. Report changes to your ophthalmologist.
Gentler Alternatives
PRP eye drops, the best first option to counteract the risks of Latisse. Platelet rich plasma eye drops are an autologous therapy that, in my view, represents the most promising alternative to Latisse because they work through the body's own biology rather than through the prostaglandin pathway, and because they contain no preservative.
PRP is prepared from a patient's own blood by centrifugation to concentrate platelets, which release a rich cocktail of growth factors including epidermal growth factor, platelet derived growth factor, vascular endothelial growth factor, fibroblast growth factor, and nerve growth factor.
The hair growth mechanism of PRP is well established in the scalp literature. PRP stimulates dermal papilla cell proliferation, activates the Wnt beta catenin, ERK, and AKT signaling pathways, and promotes the transition from telogen, the resting phase, to anagen, the growth phase. This is the same growth phase that bimatoprost prolongs, but through endogenous growth factor signaling rather than prostaglandin receptor activation. A 2025 New England Journal of Medicine review of hair loss treatments confirmed that PRP's therapeutic potential lies in the release of growth factors from activated platelet alpha granules, enhancing telogen to anagen transition and prolonging anagen. While scalp data cannot be directly extrapolated to eyelashes, the underlying follicular biology is shared. Eyelash follicles contain the same dermal papilla cells and cycle through the same anagen, catagen, and telogen phases.
On the ocular surface side, PRP eye drops have shown significant benefit for dry eye disease and meibomian gland dysfunction, the very conditions that Latisse can cause or worsen through both its prostaglandin and BAK components. Murtaza and colleagues in 2022 conducted a pilot study of PRP drops in patients with evaporative dry eye from meibomian gland dysfunction and found significant improvements in dry eye symptoms with p value less than zero point zero zero one, non invasive tear break up time with p value zero point zero zero six, and tear meniscus height with p value zero point zero four five after just four weeks. Five eyes showed a one grade improvement in meibomian gland morphology on meibography, and none worsened. Nadelmann and colleagues in 2022 reported a significant decrease in OSDI scores from 39 point 5 to 30 point 8, with p value zero point zero two, in patients with severe ocular surface disease treated with PRP drops. A 2024 network meta analysis of sixteen randomized controlled trials involving 898 patients found that PRP eye drops significantly outperformed artificial tears in improving corneal fluorescein staining and OSDI scores. A 2026 comprehensive review of meibomian gland dysfunction therapies identified PRP as a promising emerging treatment option for meibomian gland dysfunction refractory to conventional therapies.
The appeal of PRP eye drops as a counter strategy to Latisse is that they directly address every major risk Latisse introduces. PRP supports eyelash follicle health through endogenous growth factors rather than prostaglandin receptor activation. There is no prostaglandin associated periorbitopathy. There is no risk of iris color change. There is no orbital fat atrophy. There is no ptosis. There is no interference with glaucoma medications. There is no preservative at all, let alone a cytotoxic quaternary ammonium compound like BAK. And PRP simultaneously nourishes the ocular surface and supports the meibomian glands, the very glands Latisse can damage. For a patient who has been using Latisse and is concerned about the cumulative risk, transitioning to PRP eye drops is in my view the most physiologically rational substitution available.
Treat blepharitis and Demodex. Demodex infestation is now addressable with prescription lotilaner ophthalmic solution zero point two five percent, also known as Xdemvy, which was FDA approved in July 2023 for the treatment of Demodex blepharitis. The Saturn one and Saturn two phase three trials showed that twice daily lotilaner for six weeks achieved collarette cure in 44 to 56 percent of patients versus 7 to 13 percent for vehicle, and mite eradication in 52 to 68 percent versus 15 to 18 percent for vehicle, with p value less than zero point zero zero zero one for all endpoints.
Omega three fatty acids. Omega three supplementation has been shown to change the fatty acid composition of meibum and promote meibomian gland secretion. A 2024 randomized clinical trial in JAMA Ophthalmology found that re esterified triglyceride omega three supplementation significantly reduced eyelid telangiectasia grades compared to control in patients with dry eye disease and meibomian gland dysfunction. High omega three consumption has also been associated with a decreased frequency of meibomian gland dysfunction, with an odds ratio of zero point 22, in postmenopausal women.
Sleep and lifestyle fundamentals. These build healthier lashes than any serum.
Adolescents
Latisse is not approved for anyone under eighteen. A pediatric study evaluated bimatoprost in adolescents aged fifteen to seventeen with hypotrichosis and showed efficacy of 73 percent versus 7 percent for vehicle, but the FDA label does not carry an indication for patients under eighteen. Please do not let your daughter use it. Adolescent eyes are still developing, the hormonal pathways are still maturing, there is no long term safety data for this age group, and the BAK preservative exposure starts compounding from a young age.
Latisse is a real medication. Treat it that way.
References
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Sandra Lora Cremers MD FACS is a board certified ophthalmologist and Fellow of the American College of Surgeons practicing at Visionary Eye Doctors in Rockville, Maryland. She specializes in cataract surgery, glaucoma, dry eye disease, and ocular surface disease.
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